AtomChurch Posted October 7, 2007 Report Share Posted October 7, 2007 1972 510. with a 1978 510 L20b. well first off ill start with this. the alternator im almost positive works. i tested the output voltage from the "bat" terminal and i receive ~14 ish volts. my question is what do all the terminals go to. there is the clip with the two terminals and there is the bat terminal. i hooked everything up to the battery. also, my turn signals used to work, but since installing the engine and wiring that all up, they dont work anymore. i also changed the flasher things under the dash. i was doing something and had to move some wires out of the way and my signals started to work again. now they dont. i couldnt find any loose wires. i guess what i think to be wrong is the ground is either rusted or shorting out to something, i think that it might be shorting out because when i leave the key on the on position the battery gets drained. also what wire is switched power that is also on when the key is in the start position? I have the transistor ignition hooked up to switched power right now that doesn't get power when the key is in the start position, so i let the engine crank for a second the i let it go to the on position and it starts up. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 7, 2007 Report Share Posted October 7, 2007 I assume you are using the '72 alternator with external regulator? If so, some of the wires go to the regulator. If you are now using the '78 alt., it probably has the internal regulator and is wired differently. Hainz has a diagran for hook up to the earlier 510. If you leave the key in the on position the battery will go dead eventually. The BW (black/white) wire coming from the ignition switch and finds it's way to the coil, is on in the run position and in the start position. Connect this wire to the EI coil directly, without the ballast resistor. This will provide power during start and run only, and is off in any other position. Be sure you are using the matching EI coil. Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted October 8, 2007 Report Share Posted October 8, 2007 Dam your good mike :D Are you sure you changed the correct flasher? There is one for hazards and one for blinkers. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted October 8, 2007 Report Share Posted October 8, 2007 How can you fuck this up????????? whatever you do dont cut no wires and rig stuff this is a ez fit if it WAS working before. tell up what all was installed EXACTLY. otherwise I will assume you put the old alternstor form the org mot back in there otherwise thare can be a external/internater alternator installed then the next is the electronisc ignition part.The distributor. http://datsun510.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=124&size=big&papass=&sort=1 if you installed a IR alternator with the Volt reg still on eside of car read Jason Grays article for trasistor ignition http://www.the620.com/620tech.htm below is a remote IR ignition unit(1978). I never seen where this box is on a car/truck. Not used to often most use the later 1979 Matchbox type. then the stock wiring diagram in color black/white wire is switchable power when key is ON Start the blu/blk wire get 12volts remember a stock point ignition whats a point coil a IR tignition what a eleltronic ignition coil and doesn not use the white ballast resistor!!!!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment
hang_510 Posted October 8, 2007 Report Share Posted October 8, 2007 whatever you do dont cut no wires and rig stuffthis is a ez fit if it WAS working before. ^:D check ALL the connectors for corrosion (not just loose)! cleaning them up should take care of it. if wigglin the wires causes it to work, my guess is this will fix it. Quote Link to comment
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