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fuel pump removal


djmoreron

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i buy my webers used on ebay for around $100. and i have't had to rebuild them. they're the easiest of carbs to rebuild if you need to. i've heard hitachi's are among the most complicated to rebuild having 3 bodies and all.

 

i had a strange fuel problem many moons ago. my truck would run then die after a few seconds. i could jump in it and move it about 50 feet then it would run out of gas. i would have to wait a few minutes then it would work again. it came down to the fact that i wanted to use those old school hose wire clamps. they were sucking air so i switched to the modern flat style of hose clamps and my problem went away. (i still want to use the old school clamps, i have a pile of them)

 

pull off the fuel line from the tank to the pump and blow in it until you hear the fuel tank bubbling. if you cant hear air bubbling you may want to stick a air compressor to the line and blow any debres all back to the tank until you hear bubbles. if your truck runs after that you may have a rust problem.

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ok, now this is just odd. i didnt get a chance to check anything. truck ran fine last time i drove it two days ago, other than my intermittent problem. now it wont start at all. when i turn the key in the ignition, all i get is a click, and i can very faintly hear something turning. i checked the battery, its fine. could this be my alternator, starter? i apolgize, im a newbie at this so please bear with me.

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if i'm not mistaken the click is the starter solenoid. but if the engine isn't turning over at all it's the starter. either the wiring to it or the starter motor itself. my truck does this and the battery will still show a charge but not actually have enough power to get the starter going. maybe put some jumper cables on it or throw the charger on there and try that?

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Start w/ the simple $h!t. Disconnect and clean the battery cables and wires on the starter - both ends. The ground from the starter housing is still there, right? Don't forget to disconnect and clean that, too.

 

Bad connections and missing ground wires cause more electrical issues than anything else.

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On the clicking...i dealt with ALL of the problems your describing. Put in a NEW battery & replace the batt. terminals & see what it does. If the click is still there may be a stuck solenoid, new starters are only $40 ish. On the stalling out i agreee w/ Mike & p peters on it being crap in the gas tank. The universal filters are $3 & get a few or....remove the gas tank & drain it..have a radiator shop steam clean it out & seal it. You may have some crap clogging the carb which may require it be taken apart & cleaned/rebuilt. Keep us posted...

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I've had OK luck with Bosch rebuilt starters. The Autolites are garbage, just like the alternators - both of which are "lifetime guarantee" which you will use repeatedly the first year in my experience). In fact I trust junkyard ones over those Malaysian rebuilds.

 

I like the gear reduction starter in my 4X4, but it's overkill. Great for starting in gear when the clutch hydraulics fail...

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First....turn your headlights on...are they bright or dim? If they're bright, you battery is good enough to turn the starter over. If they're dim...get the batt checked and replaced if bad.

 

Second...it could be that you are not getting enough juice through the ign switch to fully pull in the solenoid. Until the sol pulls in all the way, the main contacts that give the starter motor it's juice don't engage. So...you can either unplug the small wire off the solenoid and arc a screwdriver from the main batt cable connecting to the starter to the little connector on the solenoid...effectively bypassing the ign switch and circuit and getting max juice to the solenoid.......this method is down and dirty. Not the safest, just the fastest. If the motor kicks over everytime you do that, you just need more juice to the solenoid. OR.....use a jumper cable from the + post of the batt to the terminal on the solenoid where the ign wire connects. You can connect the end at the starter, then tap the end at the batt terminal.

 

The solenoid is simply an electro-magnet and it's weak if it doesn't get the juice it needs. If the solenoid is working okay, you will still get a click...probably a bit louder.....but the motor won't turn over. Actually, it should be fairly loud since it will push the pinion gear into the ring gear. In that case, you need a new starter.

 

If it's the ign circuit....you can add a relay into the circuit.

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i've noticed that battery cable corrision is usually the problem. i saw a ford 94 f150 that was corroded more than half way down the cable, under the insulation. it's a dirty cable or bad starter. if you can turn your terminals after there all the way tightened then replace them. if not clean the piss out of them and the wires and battery. they sell a special corrision remover in a spray can. buy the spray and a post cleaner.

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sorry, been a few days repainting parts of a friends house and sanding/staining some wooden doors....

 

you know, i figured out what the problem was. when i repaced the cheapo battery, i took off some extra cable that was attached to the negative battery post and connected to the head. when i reattached it, the truck fired right up. turns out my negative battery cable was connected to the lower radiatior bracket where it bolts down to the frame (well, i think thats what it was) and never getting ground other than from that extra cable. so i reattached it to the head and it fired right up. :D i have no idea why it was like that, but it works, and now ive gotta try to figure out this fuel issue. thanks!

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sorry, been a few days repainting parts of a friends house and sanding/staining some wooden doors....

 

you know, i figured out what the problem was. when i repaced the cheapo battery, i took off some extra cable that was attached to the negative battery post and connected to the head. when i reattached it, the truck fired right up. turns out my negative battery cable was connected to the lower radiatior bracket where it bolts down to the frame (well, i think thats what it was) and never getting ground other than from that extra cable. so i reattached it to the head and it fired right up. :D i have no idea why it was like that, but it works, and now ive gotta try to figure out this fuel issue. thanks!

 

Make sure that you have a 10 or 12 gauge wire from battery ground to the sheet metal body. Mine was broken, worn out or missing on my 521. I got a bad short to to the body, and because the motor is insulated by rubber engine/tranny mounts, the only way for it to get to the neg terminal was down the throttle cable to the carb on the grounded motor. The inner cable heated up hot enough to melt the outer cable and when it cooled it was welded together. Pedal was 'frozen' had to limp home by setting the fast idle cam.

 

You might even find that your lights are brighter and other electrical things work better.

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Mike do you have a pic of said 12 gauge ground wire coming off the Neg. cable? My 620 doesnt have that & i have all sorts of electrical issues like dim dash lights, weak signals & when i park i have to remove the battery cables or it kills the battery.

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Mike do you have a pic of said 12 gauge ground wire coming off the Neg. cable? My 620 doesnt have that & i have all sorts of electrical issues like dim dash lights, weak signals & when i park i have to remove the battery cables or it kills the battery.

 

Sorry, I meant to make one if you don't have one. There should be a small black wire coming off the neg cable and screwed to the pass side inner fender. I find they are pretty small and the screw gets rusty or loose or it gets taken off and is forgotten. Just be sure you have a good thick wire between the body and the block (or the neg terminal)

 

Try putting a circuit tester lamp between one of the terminals and the disconnected cable. If it lights then you have something drawing power. Start removing fuses untill it goes out. the fuse that causes the light to go out is the circuit that has the load. This will narrow it down a little. Some P/O may have added something to the circuit. Or the alternator itself may have failed.

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Mine had a black wire with a sheet metal screw into the fender. Anything will do, even a wire from a valve cover bolt to the fire wall. As long as there is a good solid connection from the battery negative terminal OR from the block, to the sheet metal of the body.

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Pac....the main neg batt cable has to go to the eng block to provide the return path for the starter...which pulls more juice than anything else. You'll want another ground....(can be 10ga..bigger is better. I like to run another ground cable that has terminals on both ends)......from the block(right where the batt cable bolted on) or the batt term to the core support. I would only go back to the batt term if you have a new cable with pre-made clamps on it with the fusible link already in place. If you're using do-it-yourself batt clamps, run the wire from the block. The DIY clamps corrode very easily and you'll end up with a bad body ground. I typically go to the core suport since it has good solid bolts holding up the radiator already. I highly suggest another 10ga(min 14ga) wire running from the body of the dizzy to the core support, or even back to the battery term. ESPECIALLY if you have an EI dizzy!!!!! Since the body/frame are typically isolated from each other by rubber body mounts, it's also a good idea to run a 10 to 8ga wire from the eng block/trans/starter bolt/clutch slave bolt (one of these choices) to the frame. My 2 cents :)

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there's gotta be somethin in that concept of plenty of good, proper grounding. when i was really into hondas i was lookin at buyin a premade grounding kit that promised gains of 10hp but it cost 100 bucks. i did some research and found that the only difference between that kit and doing it yourself was they were precut to length. i ended up selling my civic but still there has to be something to that, even in a simple engine like the L. something about clean hot spark or something?

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the 10hp :rolleyes: claim probbaly is regained by having a good ground in the first place, not added by replacing the cables

 

in my 510 the lights were the typical dim.

after cleaning the contacts EVERYWHERE, a new wire form the chasis to the block & alternator wires fixed (melted insulation :eek: )the lights are now nice and bright(new bulbs too)and dont flicker w/ the RPMs

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