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Pertronix 1741 Ignitor and 40,000 volt Flamethrower coil


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#21 ggzilla

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Posted 05 March 2014 - 01:51 PM

Better option is 1979-1982 factory matchbox distributor. But the pertronix ignitor 1 works almost as well and is easier to do.

Ignitor II was not available for Datsun distributors last year.
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#22 datzenmike

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Posted 05 March 2014 - 05:29 PM

I'm glad someone dredged this up. I was thinking of putting in the matched pair, 

Pertronix 91741 Ignitor II + PerTronix 45001 Flame-Thrower II 45,000 Volt 0.6 ohm Coil

into the 510. I thought having the high power coil over the stock coil/balast setup might help smooth out the roughness I get between 6800 and 7100 rpm. Currently, I'm still running points, btw.

 

Any thoughts on other different or better options?

 

The matchbox and EI coil powers the 280z/zx to 7K. That's 10,500 RPM on a 4 cylinder. Find a good EI matchbox for $100, cheaper and all Nissan. 40,000 volts??? I doubt your 510 will use even 25,000 of that.


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#23 ggzilla

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Posted 05 March 2014 - 07:59 PM

High voltage is only utilized if you gap the plugs wider. Which is why matchbox high energy factory Datsun system can fire a .043 gap, while points are limited to about .035.

The roughness you see may be points float. The points & condenser need to be replaced every 12 months.
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#24 turcíos

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Posted 31 March 2015 - 06:54 PM

This distribuidor can used pertronix 1741 o el 91741.

#25 Evaded

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Posted 27 May 2015 - 08:12 AM

bumpin this..... need one for a dual point dizzy. thought mine was right for my 70 510? Looks like mines supposed to be single point and not dual?

 

need help.... Ill take pics of dizzy and bay. L16?



#26 Doctor510

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Posted 27 May 2015 - 05:55 PM

Single point dist ONLY.



#27 distributorguy

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Posted 29 June 2015 - 04:57 AM

I rebuild distributors for a living (its all I do), and if there's one thing I can say without any doubt in my mind, its that points will produce more power at the wheels than Pertronix, if the distributor is in good working order.  Wear and tear reduce the distributor's ability to hold a steady dwell.  Pertronix masks that.  Pertronix is also susceptible to causing misfires by reading mild spark plug wire noise (ALL plug wires produce some level of noise.)  That noise can be sensed by the module causing it to randomly fire, leaving the coil undercharged when the next plug fires.  The level of undercharge varies, and you end up withe a loss of 4-7 hp on average as measured at the rear wheels versus using points.  

 

40KV coils do not always produce that power level.  If they did, they would overheat and fail.  Most of the time our Datsun cars and trucks run on 12-15KV.  We need a 3 Ohm coil, no external ballast resistor, no matter if we run points or Pertronix, or Crane, or whatever, with exceptions of high output systems like MSD and Pertronix II, which I do not recommend even if you are running at a competitive level.  For instance, I'll be running points in my 620 running for a land speed record at Bonneville this August, yes running points at 8500 rpm!  I'll test it at the dyno to confirm the 14.5::1 compression doesn't affect spark quality, but it should be fine as its a winning recipe I have concocted many, many times over the years.  



#28 datzenmike

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Posted 29 June 2015 - 05:36 AM

I don't know about the Pertronix system but it, and the factory EI system's advantage of never having to mess with points maintenance ever again is worth it. I've driven an IEI set up until it wore out the cap button and failed to start. This was from complacency... never having a problem with it and totally forgetting to do even a rudimentary inspection of parts wear. Didn't even have the plugs out in 5 years it just ran so well.

 

There is a lot of 'built in' distributor slop from a design first used in the late 60s L engine. Later Z and KA 'distributors' (CAS actually) were splined to the drive spindle for more accuracy.

 

720EFICAS005.jpg

 

720EFICASdist002Large.jpg


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#29 distributorguy

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Posted 06 August 2015 - 01:59 PM

Personally, I'm not willing to give up 4-7 hp (average) by installing a Pertronix and getting "better reliability."  In my book, that's detuning and I don't believe in that, just to avoid adjusting points every 6k miles?  On a distributor that's not only front and center, its upright!  It can't get any easier!  

 

After testing MANY electronic ignitions on the chassis and engine dynos, the only time I saw a gain in power or any improvement in drivability was when a crank fired system was installed (no distributor at all).  Even then, plug wires can cause issues if they're long enough and sensor wires aren't properly shielded.  I'm changing out the crank sensor in my Willys truck right now to alleviate a signal quality issue.  



#30 CableDroid

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Posted 23 March 2017 - 10:08 AM

Do you still use the vacuum advance with the first gen Pertronix?
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-1974 Chevrolet K5 2wd, Full Convertible, LSx 6.0 swap, turbo, etc

#31 datzenmike

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Posted 23 March 2017 - 11:28 AM

Always use vacuum advance. It only comes into play at part throttle.


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#32 CableDroid

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Posted 23 March 2017 - 12:41 PM

Agreed. It was suggested by another member to not use it because the Pertronix has a built in advance.

Thx!
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-1970 Datsun 510 Wagon: L20B, Weber DGV, 4 speed, 280zx struts/brakes/coilovers, 15x7 Konig Rewinds, Nitto 205/50/15
-1974 Chevrolet K5 2wd, Full Convertible, LSx 6.0 swap, turbo, etc

#33 datzenmike

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Posted 23 March 2017 - 06:50 PM

Pertronix does not have 'built in advance'.

 

Pertronix only gets rid of the points... does nothing for the spark as you have to use 3 ohm coil or 1.5 ohm coil and a 1.5 ohm ballast resister. No frigging way you get 40K volts from that. After market coil makers make all kinds of claims that are bullshit. Paint them red and give them names like 'Flamethrower'


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#34 CableDroid

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Posted 23 March 2017 - 06:52 PM

I am using my stock coil. Works fine for me.
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-1970 Datsun 510 Wagon: L20B, Weber DGV, 4 speed, 280zx struts/brakes/coilovers, 15x7 Konig Rewinds, Nitto 205/50/15
-1974 Chevrolet K5 2wd, Full Convertible, LSx 6.0 swap, turbo, etc

#35 datzenmike

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Posted 23 March 2017 - 06:54 PM

Me too but thinking of painting it red.


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#36 CableDroid

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Posted 23 March 2017 - 07:03 PM

Not me....rattle can Mexican chrome.
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-1970 Datsun 510 Wagon: L20B, Weber DGV, 4 speed, 280zx struts/brakes/coilovers, 15x7 Konig Rewinds, Nitto 205/50/15
-1974 Chevrolet K5 2wd, Full Convertible, LSx 6.0 swap, turbo, etc

#37 datzenmike

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Posted 23 March 2017 - 07:10 PM

OOoooo can I use that idea???


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#38 CableDroid

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Posted 23 March 2017 - 07:12 PM

Sure....free country and open forum.
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-1970 Datsun 510 Wagon: L20B, Weber DGV, 4 speed, 280zx struts/brakes/coilovers, 15x7 Konig Rewinds, Nitto 205/50/15
-1974 Chevrolet K5 2wd, Full Convertible, LSx 6.0 swap, turbo, etc

#39 Lockleaf

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Posted 24 March 2017 - 04:21 PM

I wrapped my coil in the can of a preferred beverage.

Half Pint ('71 510 Goon) http://community.rat...agon/p?=1269361

 

Audrey ('69 Roadster 1600) http://community.rat...rey-the-ratster

 

Tiny Havok ('85 720 DIY built Crewcab 4x4) http://community.rat...ache/?p=1395455

 

720 Shenanigans http://community.rat...20-shenanigans/


#40 genkiracing

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Posted 01 June 2017 - 02:04 PM

FWIW I tried the Pertronix setup competitively for a season. I didn't dyno, but telemetry showed my final/top speed before breaking zones was consistently lower than previous years on all tracks in all weather. That would be consistent with what @distributorguy mentioned.

 

However, I did notice better throttle response when transitioning out of sharper corners. esp. going from light maintenance throttle to WOT. The engine just seemed to "fire better" in that first moment of mashing on the gas.

 

Those observations could obviously be due to a variety of other things (driver attitude?), other small things changed on the car as well throughout the season... But, thinking back a few years, I thought I'd give my seat-of-the-pants account.

:)