starter wiring

[sdsurf]

 

What wire goes to "b"? Does the negative off the battery? And the second off negative battery go to the alternator?

[izzo]

on my truck, the negative does not go to the starter at all. goes from battery, to body to block

 

then the positive goes from battery, to there (a)

 

 

but mines a 720, yours could be different.

Edited June 22, 2009 by h2theizzo

[kiznook]

That connector "#1" should go to "A" and should be + from the batery. Nothing goes on "B" its just the terminal housing the jumper from the solenoid to the starter motor itself.

[motavated]

What Kiz said. Why do you have that small wire hooking up to the starter. I just have the "big" battery cable hooked up on A. Not that small one #1. The yellow I know is for the oil. Can that small wire really turn over the starter?

Edited June 22, 2009 by Motavated

[thisismatt]

Stock starter wire is crappy. I would run a new, heavier gauge (at least 4ga) wire from the battery to 'A'. Like Kiz said, nothing goes to 'B' - the solenoid bridges 'A' to 'B' when triggered. Starter is grounded through the block/trans, so make sure you haven't painted over all the surfaces where the starter and/or starter bolts contact.

[INDY510]

I think "1" goes to "a",,,, AND the postitive cable from your battery goes to "a"....

 

I like to run my negative cable to the engine block,,, and then a 8 guage wire from the block to the body.

Edited June 22, 2009 by INDY510

[sdsurf]

I think "1" goes to "a",,,, AND the postitive cable from your battery goes to "a".... and that black and yellow wire goes to your alternator (I think)...

 

I like to run my negative cable to the engine block,,, and then a 8 guage wire from the block to the body.

 

I am no expert though,,, and cannot guarantee any of the above is correct.

 

So my neg has one thick (#4?) and one thin (#10?). The are connected at the terminal. According to you one should go to the block and the other to the body?

Any other grounding thoughts?

[datzenmike]

Holy fuck!

 

Yellow/Black stripe to oil pressure sender.

 

Black/White stripe with round lug on the end '1', goes to left terminal 'A'. This goes to and provides power to the fuse box.

 

Thick 4 gauge? cable from Red battery positive terminal also goes to 'A'

 

The Black/Yellow stripe that's connected comes from the ign. switch and turns the starter on in the START position.

 

Ground cable (Black negative terminal) bolts to head behind fuel pump.

Edited June 22, 2009 by datzenmike

[sdsurf]

Holy fuck!

 

Yellow/Black stripe to oil pressure sender.

 

Black/White stripe with round lug on the end '1', goes to left terminal 'A'. This goes to and provides power to the fuse box.

 

Thick 4 gauge? cable from Red battery positive terminal also goes to 'A'

 

The Black/Yellow stripe that's connected comes from the ign. switch and turns the starter on in the START position.

 

Ground cable (Black negative terminal) bolts to head behind fuel pump.

 

same spot as the engine lift point?

[banzai510(hainz)]

same spot as the engine lift point?

 

 

Yes

 

 

A) connects to B) when the ylow blk wire sends 12volt to the seliniod and then soem thck copper contacks shot A to B together to pass thru the current.

[littlekeeley]

not to left turn, but since this picture is already up - i'm taking advantage.

 

the fuse box wire that goes to the left side of the solenoid, burned up on my brothers car. we replaced it with some speaker wire and all was well. however, this apparently shorted out the alternator (IR). multimeter'd the voltage at 5.9 volts from the alternator.

 

lets say its a fun drive at midnight, on the freeway, no headlights on to save power to get to the nearest town.

 

does this sound like a legit and logical conclusion, or is it way off?

if not, how does one short an alternator out?

 

thanks dudes.

[banzai510(hainz)]

the fuse box wire that goes to the left side of the solenoid???????

This is the fusabale link wire. Sometimes the end gets correded and they fall off or burn up overtime as they get loose and only a few wires strands are really hooked up and you hit the highbeams then bam if burns up.

 

Maybe a Diode shorted in the Alternator. I have seen it happen but usually it will drain a battery and car will not start.

 

get another alternator I guess and see if that fixes it.

 

 

PS YOUR 510 still running?????????

[studioceja]

 

What wire goes to "b"? Does the negative off the battery? And the second off negative battery go to the alternator?

Hello all. I have a problem with my 1974 710. The starter and wiring is exactly the same as what is pictured in the initial post in this thread. When I try starting the car and turn the key I hear two clicks coming from the engine bay. The first click is on the "ACC" and the second click is heard when I turn the key to "START" but the starter wont do anything to crank the engine. I thought it was the battery so I charged it overnight, I checked the battery and it is working fine and holding a good charge. I also disconnected all the wiring at the starter and battery and cleaned it all before rewiring it back.

 

Once I figured out that the battery wasn't the problem I turned the key to "ON" and took a wire and bypassed the ignition by running a wire from the positive "+" post of the battery to the wire connection at the top of the starter solinoid located between and above A and B and the car cranks and starts. The engine is fine and runs smooth. If I turn the ignition key to off the car shuts off regularly.

 

Can any of you help me diagnose the problem? Is it my ignition switch? or something else. Clearly the ignition swith process doesn't send the 12v to the solinoid.

[thisismatt]

If you're hearing a click in the start position, but it's not the starter solenoid, then perhaps there is another relay in the path.

[DanielC]

On a 1970 521, there is no fuseable link.

These are thicker than normal battery cables I made for the Canby truck.

The black wire is the negative battery cable.  It goes between the negative battery terminal, and to a bolt, behind the fuel pump, and lifting ring, into the cylinder head.  There is a thinner pigtail from the connection to the head, this wire goes to the Alternator frame, to ground the alternator. 

The red wire goes from the battery positive, to the "A" terminal on the starter.  There is a white pigtail, at the battery terminal end, this goes to the three or four always hot fuses in the fusebox.

The ring terminal you marked "1" also goes on the "A" terminal on the starter.  It connects the output of the alternator to the positive battery cable.

There is also a short white wire in my picture.  This wire connects the Starter "A" terminal to the alternator output.  This wire was added to the Canby truck, because it had a higher output alternator.

In my picture there is also a marine fuse box that i used to replace the fusebox on the Canby truck.

 

At the alternator, there should be a second black wire, that connects to the frame of the alternator.  This wire goes to one of the screws holding the voltage regulator to the inner fender.  This ground wire is very important, it grounds cab sheet metal to the engine.  If this ground goes away, the cab tries to ground itself through the metal inner throttle cable.  This melts the outer plastic throttle cable, and locks it up.

 

When you work on the electrical, always disconnect the negative battery cable first.  Do all your changes, and connect the negative battery cable last.

A stock 521 should have no residual current draw.  Before you hook up the negative battery cable, use a test light between the negative battery terminal, and the negative cable end.  The light should not light up, if everything is off. 

[datzenmike]

Forty five year old wiring. Get a meter and pull the solenoid wire off the starter. Bet only 6 to 8 volts is getting to it. My 710 had intermittent start and that was the cause. I used that weak signal to power a relay with 12 volts directly from the battery.... never once has failed to turn over since.