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KGC10 Skyline 2000GT Build


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Well, under the recommendation of Nathan, I went to see Scott and Greg (top blokes btw) at Insight Motorsport for the dynotune.

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...which turns out to be one of those motorsport-focussed places that is chock full of time attack and drag cars..

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...now this is what I call a decent-sized turbo.

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...and this was on the dyno screen from the car before the Hako :)

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So we strap the Hako down for a serious session of dyno tuning. Scott had prewarned me that the first session is really just a diagnostic opportunity, to verify the ignition timing and carb settings, etc and also to see if there are any other fundamental issues which should be addressed before the serious tuning begins (like a bigger fuel pump being needed, etc).

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....and so we load it up through the gears and do a power run....hmm. That looks ok...then we do a second one.

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...and that's it!

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That's the result! 176rwhp or about 240hp at the flywheel.

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The AFRs were pretty good off the bat, it gets a bit of a lean spot at 4700rpm, probably from the convergence of the cam hitting peak torque coinciding with the last bit of ignition advance and a resonance sweet spot pulling more air thru the carbs for a brief moment.

 

Then it goes a bit lean at the top end again, but given that it was very cold today, Scott felt that it was a good compromise. In warmer weather it would be naturally richer, and while we could correct the lean tune at the top end with a smaller corrector (say a 160 instead of the 175 that's in it now) that might mean that it would be too rich in summer. In terms of ignition, we have 12 degrees base and 28 degrees max, and Scott didn't think that the engine wanted to take any more.

 

So in the end....we didn't actually tune anything and all this stuff about tuning old school by seat of the pants and looking at plug colour appears to actually work, and we didn't have to change a thing :)

 

We started talking about what might be holding the engine back. Scott and Greg thought that going to a larger choke on the carbs (say from 32mm to 36mm) would maybe open up another 10-15hp, but that 200rwhp is perhaps all that we were going to get out of the existing combination of carbs, headers and exhaust. The motor could definitely take a bigger cam, since the current one starts to tail off at 5500rpm, but we would start to sacrifice low end torque and response. The zorst might be a bit undersized for the motor, so that's one option that we could think about modifying, but I do like the quiet tone it has now (where the carbs are louder than the exhaust).

 

So there it is :) To be honest I expected a bit more power, but I think the reality is that while the engine itself has got more headroom, the induction and exhaust are holding it back. Then again, as Scott pointed out, that is also why the car feels so tractable and zingy at low rpm. And it does surpass the peak power of my old MX5 at only 3800rpm, so it's a good compromise for street (but I get the feeling that after we sort out a few things with the rest of the car, the chase for more power will begin in earnest) :lol:

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  • 2 weeks later...

The car's been running great, and since today was a bit rained out, I ended up doing some tinkering instead of the planned Sunday drive.

 

The object of my ministrations will be the late 70's vintage Pioneer TS-X9 surface mount speakers.

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Directly under the parcel shelf is the fuel tank, and there really isn't enough space for normal speakers, so most Hakos in Japan seem to have these vintage pod speakers instead.

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They still work and sound ok, but the bass driver on one side sounded blown. They're also reasonably era-appropriate, so I figured let's restore them too. Upon taking off the speaker grille, it's obvious that the bass driver is totally gone. But even after removing all the bolts, I couldn't get off that front plate.

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The whole speaker is cast metal, and the only way to get the speakers out is to remove the front plate. So I unscrew the plastic plate for the wires (and discover that the crossover is mounted on the other side) and then nudge the plate out from the inside.

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The plate was sealed to the body of the speaker by a rubber gasket, and after 30 yrs it was pretty stuck fast.

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It looks like a pretty conventional 4in bass driver, so that should be easy to replace. The tweeter I'm not so sure since it's such a big diameter. But at least the tweets are still working ok. So off we go to the stereo shoppe tomorrow to see what we can find.

 

As for the rest of the car, it's doing alright. The low gearing is starting to shit me though....lots of fun when giving it a good squirt thru the gears but then you get onto the freeway and at 110kmh it's pulling 3900rpm...anyway I reckon I'll leave the 4.6 diff gears in for now, at least until after the Wakefield trackday next mth.

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Tonight I finished up the speakers.

 

The MTX TH402 bass drivers were a pretty close fit, but still a touch too big, so a little surgery with the dremel was required. Also the flange on the speaker casing had to be cut slightly too.

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But from the outside it looks pretty good.

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And with the grilles in place you really can't tell.

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And here's the result!

 

The vid makes it sound a bit tinny but actually it's not too bad at all, and you can now crank it a lot, lot louder than with the blown old speakers too and I can turn up the bass a heap more.

 

Someone suggested that maybe it's better to ignore the old tweeter and crossover and just hook up the MTX speakers to run full range. So I hooked up one side with the crossover/tweeter and the other wide with MTX-only, and...there really wasn't much in it, but I thought that the crossover/tweeter combo sounded a touch warmer. So some of the 30yr old Pioneer parts live to fight another day :)

 

Next job is to tidy up the deck install a bit!

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Latest job is to fit the Recaro I've had sitting around for years....I bought it in 1991, and it was only used for a couople of years in my AE86 and my brither's MR2, before it was put into storage. It's an appropriately subdued design, and surprisingly, it's still in production, but it's called the Specialist today (IIRC it was Recaro RS back then).

 

First step was to get a frame made up, and for that I went to Pacific Motors, which is one of the authorised NSW Recaro dealers.

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The Hako stock seat mounts in an unusual way, at the front the seat bolts horizontally to this big crossmember that spans the floorpan. So the Recaro adapter base bolts to that.

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And at the back they chose not to use the stock mounts, but to fabricate their own mounts that bolt directly to the floor (you can see the stock mount at the right of the pic). This was partially for strength, and partially to get the mount lower, so that the Recaro wouldn't end up too high. Some nice work here...

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And in it goes! The Recaro is a lot bulkier than the stock seat, and the fancy fabrication on the seat base does mean that your bum is slightly lower than stock, but the front of the seat is a little higher for more support.

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The wider seat does foul slightly on the door...

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But there's not much that can be done, since the adjuster would foul the centre console if the seat was moved inboard.

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So far I'm quite happy with it, it's infinitely more comfy and supportive than the stock tombstone seats...my only gripe is that with the seat being a little close to the door, and the side bolsters sticking out quite a bit, there isn't enough room for your right elbow when you are swinging the steering to the right...but I reckon I'll muck around with the seat base adjustments and see what we can accomplish.

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That is an unusual way that it mounts. Looks really nice though, wish I could bag a pair of those myself.

 

I would actually like the door touching the seat like that, idk less things to rattle lol.

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That is an unusual way that it mounts. Looks really nice though, wish I could bag a pair of those myself.

 

I think it's also so that the seat rails bolt to the base at the same point where the base bolts to the floor, which is always the strongest way.

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With the Wakefield trackday being next weekend (the 15th) there is a lot to do to prepare the car.

 

The first thing is brakes...the front discs are thin and unvented and the pads inside the twin piston calipers are tiny. I was going to upgrade the hoses to braided but the stock hoses look like they were replaced not too long ago, the rubber is still supple and there are no cracks.

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So to make the most of what we've got, I have some street-spec Endless pads to put in (with oil filler cap for size reference!) To be honest I don't think these brakes will last too many laps but you work with what you got...

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Changing the pads is super easy compared to a modern sliding caliper. First you remove these pins (like RC car body pins) and then remove these rods, and then the pads are free to slide out. To push the caliper pistons back in (to make room for the thicker new pads) I just use an old pad to lever the piston in against the disc.

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But as you do it, keep an eye on the fluid level, which will rise, so I use a plastic syringe to rmove the excess (eg the oral syringe type that comes with children's cough mixture)

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New pads in...

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Then I bleed the brakes...long ago, I fitted Speedbleeders so you can do it without the help of a second person. Also the Speedbleeder bag and hose makes it convenient too.

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Top up with HKS Dot 4 fluid...and we're done. I'll bleed the rears later...I think I might be doing some work back there in the next few days. To bed in the new pads, I take it out onto the road and do 15 or so consecutive stops from 80kmh. I brake with medium pressure (just enough to dip the nose) and accelerate back up to speed again once teh car slows down to walking pace. After about 12 stops there's a little smoke from the pads, which means that the resins and chemicals used in manufacturing are leeching out.

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Then a 4pt harness...

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Which is the clip on type, so you remove the seat belt bolts and replace them with eye bolts that allow the harness to clip on a the factory mountings. I did have to get longer eyebolts for the lower mounts, which have thick spacers to allow the belt to swivel.

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The Hako doesn't have a recovery bottle for the radiator, and sometimes, you leave a little puddle of coolant after you park the car. So checking the coolant level and topping it up is something you have to do every few weeks. For the track, I figure temps will be quite a bit higher than the street, so it will possibly be belching out quite a lot fo coolant between runs. So I fitted a universal recovery bottle, which fitted neatly next to the radiator once I relocated some relays and wiring that was previously bolted there.

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The thing is, the coolant overflows into the bottle, but doesn't get sucked back when it cools. Then I learn that there is a different kind of radiator cap for recovery systems and I have to get one of those instead.

 

Lots more preparation to do this weekend!

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Here's what a recovery-bottle radiator cap looks like (on the right) compared to a non-recovery type. It's basically got a second seal at the top of the cap. With the non-recovery type, it was trying to suck the coolant from the bottle back into the radiator but lots of it was leaking out around the cap. No problem now with the proper cap tho.

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And oh, I refilled the cooling system with some Royal Purple "Purple Ice" which is an additive meant to make the engine run cooler by reducing surface tension. Half a bottle for the whole cooling system (which is 5L).

http://www.royalpurple.com/street-thunder-2.html

 

The RP catalog has some interesting blurb on the coolant/water mix however. A normal 50/50 coolant/water mix doesn't cool as well as straight water, but straight water has no corrosion inhibitors. A surprisingly big temp difference. So I settled for a 1/3 mix of coolant to water as a compromise. Plus the Purple Ice of course.

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The other thing I did over the weekend was block up the heater bypass.

 

This is what I had before...the heater's disconnected, and how it's normally plumbed-in is that the outlet at the back of the head will go into the heater, then the hose that comes out of the heater will go into that silver pipe (which then goes into the water pump). When you bypass the heater on an L-series, the easy and common thing to do is simply to join the outlet from the back of the head to the water pump inlet like so:

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But what some ppl say is that this is the wrong way to do it. When the heater is off, the argument is that no water will flow from the back of the head to the water pump inlet. And when the heater is on, then what happens is that hot water will go from the head to the heater, and then what comes back to the water pump is cooled water....and by connecting the two, what you get is hot water being recirculated from the head back to the pump. Which is not how it's supposed to work and your engine will run cooler if you plug the outlets instead of joining them.

 

So for the time being I've plugged up the outlets, but after the trackday I will get a proper brass plug for the water pump inlet and remove that silver pipe.

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Hopefully all of this will keep the overheating at bay at Wakefield this weekend...

 

The other thing that happened this morning that has started to concern me tho is that when I cranked the engine, something at the back of the alternator started (around where the diode pack is) to glow...and the battery +ve terminal on the alt got red hot too (he says ruefully, inspecting the burn mark on his thumb). Once it started, I couldn't get it to do it again, and it still seems to charge ok, 13.5V at idle and 14.1V with a few rpm up.

 

I think I'll take it to the electrician who rebuilt the alt to let him have a look tomorrow.

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Well...it turns out that blocking off the heater bypass with those rubber plugs wasn't such a great idea...

 

So anyway, I had gone to pay my old mate Greg (you'll recall he has the silver Hako with the Hayashis) a visit to borrow some shocks which were surplus to his requirements (more of which anon). So after we had a bit of a chat, I jumped back in the car, fired her up, drove around the corner and...*sniff, sniff*...is that....coolant? (thank goodness it has quite a distinctive smell)

 

In the corner of my eye I notice the water temp gauge start to drop, a sure sign that the water is gone and the sensor is just reading air. So I pull over as soon as I can, shut off the motor, and see this:

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Coolant...everywhere. And the culprit was not hard to find, one of the rubber plugs had a nice neat round hole!

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Thankfully I'd only driven a few hundred metres before shutting down, so I waited a half hour for the engine to get really cool down, then made a beeline for an underground parking station a few hundred metres down the road (wasn't any parking spaces on the street anyway). Then I locked up the car, came back up to street level, and hailed a cab....took the cab home, picked up several containers of water and some heater hose and hose clamps...jumped back in the cab to go back to the Hako.

 

Then replaced the heater hose bypass (so it's back to what it was before) refilled it with water, and drove back to work :) Thankfully the plug decided to burst at a time when it was most likely to be noticed, if say I was on the freeway with nowhere to pull off to, or nowhere safe to leave the car, then it would have been much worse.

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So yes. The coolant bypass is back the way it was...and I reckon I'll probably leave it like that. Forever :D

 

The reason for the plug failing isn't hard to fathom either....on the left is standard heater hose, which is about the same thickness of rubber, but, crucially, it is reinforced with fabric. The plug is just plain old rubber.

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Anyway...about those shocks. You might recall that since we raised the bumpstops, the rear tyres do touch the inner wheelarch on fast dips. But I've since discovered that if youy get the tail out, when it regrips the tyre will scrape the wheelarch too, which might be a drag if it's going to do that all the time at Wakefield this weekend.

 

So Greg kindly offered to lend me a set of gas KYB shocks he had spare.

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They are the same length as the non-gas red KYBs that were in the Hako from before, and just from pushing down on the shocks by hand, the silver KYBs seem to have a lot firmer bump damping.

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So in they go, and after a short drive they certainly are a lot firmer in the back than the old shocks were, and now it doesn't seem like it wants to sit down at the back under power anymore, which is great. I didn't push it, but the balance seems like there's less understeer now, too, which should be interesting at the track.

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I reckon I'm not going to fiddle with the car anymore between now and the trackday :D

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i dont know who said that running a hose between the heater inlet and outlet is bad all you did was bypass the heater core the coolent travels in the same places stock just now it goes threw less distance to do so

 

as for the shocks isnt that a wonderfull feeling i changed the shocks in my 610 and it was a night and day difference

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i dont know who said that running a hose between the heater inlet and outlet is bad all you did was bypass the heater core the coolent travels in the same places stock just now it goes threw less distance to do so

There's a lot of discussion on it at http://www.hybridz.org, and the theory is that yes, you're right, coolant goes along that route anyway when the heater is on. But when the heater is on, the water that goes back into the bypass is cooled, whereas with the plain hose bypass the water that re enters the system is hot.

 

When you look at where that silver pipe goes, it joins the cool water ex-radiator as it goes into the block, so in theory it's diluting the cooled water with hot water.

 

But I think maybe in reality, the pressure from the incoming ex-radiator water will offset the heater bypass water and so the amount of flow might not be as much as it seems.

Edited by Babalouie
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Well the trackday and come and gone, and the good news is that the Hako is still in one piece :)

 

It's been running well but you can't be too prepared, so we have packed most of my tools, spare oil and coolant, extra fuel and some spare heater hoses, fuel hoses, clamps, you name it :) This is not just insurance againt problems at the track but also the long 2.5hr drive to the track (which would be the longest journey undertaken in the Hako ever)

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But the long drive down passed without incident and we arrived safely at Wakefield Park. I had been concerned about the low diff ratio limiting the practical speed on the freeway but even at 4000rpm in 5th gear (which was only 110kmh) the motor is pretty smooth and unstressed, and even the fuel consumption wasn't that shocking.

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And here's the first run!

 

The car ran great! We gave it hell all day and the oil pressure and temps remained stable and it felt tight and strong. The low gearing worked out great for Wakefield, being in the powerband in all crucial corners and pulling to 5700rpm in 5th gear (about 165kmh) down the straight before braking. Plenty of hump in a straight line, I found myself shifting up at 6000rpm, which dropped the revs back into the midrange torque in the next gear.

 

In terms of handling, the good news is that there's decent cornerspeed, and it's very benign and forgiving. Anyone could jump in it and go fast, it doesn't bite, not even while jumping over the amazingly tall Wakefield ripple strips, so the foundations are there. The gripe I do have is that there is rather a fair bit of turn-in understeer. Once you're up to the apex and powering out, it's quite neutral, so it's mainly just the initial tip-in which is a bit washy. In the vids you can probably tell I'm using a lot of trailbrake and then getting on the power quite hard on the exit to neutralise it, and that does dial out most of the understeer, but we are losing a fait bit of entry speed into some crucial corners as a result.

 

As to the reason behind it, I think we don't have to look too far :) The front tyres wore very evenly and there isn't any overheating or chunking of the outside tread, so i think it's quite evenely loaded and there isn't any geometry problem like insufficient camber. The problem I think is that we just don't have enough tyre.

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At the back, we have 245/50-14 Yokohama 352s, and at the front we have far skinnier 185/60-14 Yokohama C-Drives. Compared to the fronts, the rears hardly look worn at all after the trackday. One positive aspect of the big n little tyre combo was that we didn't have any problems with traction at all, and even with the open diff, there is very little single tyre wheelspin and great powerdown coming out of corners.

 

The other issue we had was brakes. It probably didn't help that I was riding the brakes a lot going into the tight corners, but they faded quite dramatically after about 2 hot laps. That meant that I couldn't trailbrake as much and so we had more understeer...which led to even more overheating of the front rubber. So in the end, I had to approach each run with one hard lap, then 2 cooldown laps, then another hard lap.

 

The problem was that often when I got back into the pace, I would have good brakes or good front grip but not both at the same time! So my fastest laps were always the first timed lap in each run. If we can fix the braking power then I think it would be a lot more effective as a trackcar, but at the moment it's fast only for a very short handful of laps time.

 

The organisers of the trackday rather optimistically seeded the Hako in the second-fastest run group...so the Hako would have to mix it (in Group D) with Lancer Evos, a 350Z, and other hot metal like S2000 and Megane 225. I found that I could stay with the pace and not hold anybody up for maybe 2 laps, but after that everything would be getting very slidey and brakeless and I'd have to back off and let ppl behind go thru.

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Here's me chasing a Mazda MPS6 (Mazdaspeed Atenza in Japan)

 

And a Lancer Evo6.

 

Generally I found that I wasn't losing much in a straight line, and if the brakes were in good shape I could hang in there too...but after about a lap of hanging on, I'd have to back off and fall back.

 

But overall I'm pretty happy with how the Hako went. Best laptime was 1'15, which was about midfield. Fastest time of day was a tussle between some hot Nissan S15 Silvias which were circulating at 1'08s, and then there were a whole bunch of Lancer Evos, 350Zs and other S15s around the 1'13 and 1'14 mark.

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So for a 40year old boat with skinny tyres and no brakes I think we did okay :) To be honest 1'15 was a bit quicker than I though it would go, and I'm really, really pleased that it's quite fast around a track by modern standards...I really didn't see that coming. The final laptimes will be posted up on a website soon and I'll put the link up when it's available.

 

Oh, and a question was answered for me on the day too! In japanese magazines, I always see Hakos with the wipers like this below. The oldschool wipers in the Hako don't self-park at the bottom of the windscreen when you turn them off (t will simply stop where they are when you flick off the switch). So maybe I figured that it was some bizarre affectation about reducing air resistance by parking the wipers upright....but now I know the reason why.

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After a few laps at speed, the wind resistance overcame the wiper mechanism and the wipes started to creep up the windscreen by themselves. So after 2 laps they were at 45 degrees across my field of vision. The solution? Park 'em upright..... :D

 

There's room for improvement...I think that upgrading the 600lbs rear springs to...maybe as much as 750lbs would work well, but fitting a rear swaybar (there isn't one back there) would be a better solution. Brakes...well anything we do would make it better and I think I might look into the Toyota 4-pot caliper and Mitsubishi vented disc conversion that a lot of the Zed guys seem to swear by. If we had better brakes and turn-in I think a time in the mid 1'14s would be achievable...but it's it's a lot of fun anyway as it is.

 

There were lots of pics taken by my friends on the day, and I'll post them here as they get uploaded. Until then here are some great pics from various forum posts.

 

These great shots are from Silver6 at ozmazda.com

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And these are from Jalapeno at jdmstyletuning.com

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Any problems from the yakouza when taking the car from Japan? I have heard they dont like to say goodbye to their pride and heritiage.

My car was in such poor condition and hardly ran when it left Japan, so they probably figured it was no great loss :lol:

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More pics of the Wakefield trackday :)

 

These are from my mate Derek Lau:

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Where there's smoke, there's fire...where there's fire, there's brake fade :)

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And these are from my mate Richard Hinze

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What did I say about the Wakefield ripple strips being high? :D

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Lately the starter motor has been starting to play up. You would turn the key, and it would only be able to rustle up a half turn of cranking before weakly giving up. Oh, eventually it would manage to turn over more than half a turn and then the engine would catch and fire but it was getting annoying.

 

The wiring was fine, the connections were good and there was only 0.8V of voltage drop between the battery and the starter when cranking, so the starter was getting plenty of juice, and the problem would have to lie within.

 

So off comes the starter. Thankfully in the Hako it's an easy thing to remove, just undo two easy to reach bolts and it pretty much just falls off. But before we do all that it's important to disconnect the battery. The Hako starter is switched on the earth side, so it gets a constant +ve feed from the battery, so that power wire will short against the bodywork if the battery is not disconnected first.

Starter001.jpg

 

Once it's on the bench, the starter isn't a very complicated device to understand. The big part is the starter itself, which is just a huge electric motor.

Starter002.jpg

 

But notice that there are no wires going into the starter at all, just a big braided copper wire that goes into the smaller thing.

Starter003.jpg

 

That smaller thing is the solenoid, which does two things. Inside it is an electrically operated plunger, which draws back this piston, which is attached to the starter shaft itself. When the piston is in its normal position, the starter gear is retracted.

Starter005.jpg

 

But when you crank the starter, the piston draws back, and you can see that the starter gear now moves forward to engage with the flywheel.

Starter006.jpg

 

The second thing the solenoid does is redirect the juice to the starter to make it turn. At the back of the solenoid are these two huge terminals. The one on the bottom is the +ve feed to the battery, and the one at the top takes the current from inside the solenoid to the starter (its where that big braided wire attaches to).

Starter004.jpg

 

But when we take apart the solenoid the problem is apparent straight away. When you crank the starter and the piston slides back, its second function is that it pushes the rectangular copper bar on the right back too. It then touches those two copper pads (which are the inside of those big terminals), bridges the connection and the juice will flow to the starter. But as you can see, the copper contacts are toast, and there'd be tons of resistance with all that crud...no wonder the starter couldn't get enough torque to turn the engine over.

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After a bit of sanding, the contacts are nice and shiny again. At this point, I reckon we could have just put it all back together but we might as well disassemble the starter to see if there is anything weird going on in there too.

Starter009.jpg

 

It's easy to take apart, and you can see the fork that slides the starter gear back and forth, and the guts of the starter.

Starter010.jpg

 

The comm looks a bit worn at first...

Starter011.jpg

 

...but after a bit of sanding the copper came good again. Also I cleaned out the grooves between the copper sections with a pick tool, apparently the gunge that accumulates in the grooves can contain metallic particles from wear, and those can conduct current and reduce the torque of the starter.

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And here's the business end, the brushes (which conduct the current, so are ultra important). The brushes look ok and are not cracked or broken, and the springs that keep them pushed against the comm look ok. The manual says that they should be changed when they are worn down to 12mm, so they are quite borderline in this case, but I figure that's something we can fix later and let's see if the solenoid repair has fixed it.

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Back together it all goes....

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...and into the car it all goes.

 

The result? Success! :)

 

The starter now cranks great. One of these days I'll take the starter off again and get an electrician to solder in new brushes. I was surprised at how simple the starter is inside, but i'm really glad that it's one of those oldschool things that can be fixed, rather than thrown away and replaced.

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Nice work on the starter, they are pretty basic. Used to rebuild those as an apprentice auto elec.

 

You can buy replacement tops for the solenoids if it ever causes a problem again. Also the brushes are a piece of piss to solder in yourself if you need to change them.

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I decided to finish off the restoration of the original starter, and got an electrician to solder in new brushes for me, and machine the comm nice and clean again. Thanks to Mark at North Shore Auto Electrical for doing a great job.

newstarter005.jpg

 

And as you can see compared to before the new brushes are a lot longer, so the old ones were definitely worn pretty low.

 

Before

Starter016-1.jpg

 

After :)

newstarter003.jpg

 

Once all refitted, it did noticeably spin up with more energy so the new brushes have definitely made a difference.

 

But...while I was out tracking down starter motor parts, it turned out that a new starter isn't really all that expensive. So I ended up with a 1.2kw model from a brand called OEX for the not unreasonable sum of $200. AFAIK the original starter is a 1.0kw 240Z starter and even though the new one's 20% more powerful it's noticeably more compact and lighter. We were always a bit concerned that the old starter would struggle to turn over the hi compression big six, and maybe having to work so hard has hastened its demise. Unlike the old starter, the new one can't be opened up for repairs so it's a throwaway once it's worn. But now that the old one is ship-shape I'll stow it away as a spare, who knows, maybe in years to come you won't be able to get new ones anymore and the old one seems to be infinitely rebuildable.

newstarter006.jpg

 

No problems with fitment of the new one...

newstarter008.jpg

 

Works pretty good...if I had to put my finger on it I'd say that it doesn't sound like it's turning as fast as the old starter, but seems to have more torque and the cranking speed doesn't seem to dip slightly when it does that first turn.

 

Starter motors are fun! Who knew? :D

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