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620 coilover mounts


BEEBANI

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So, I scored a rolling chassis from Jester a while ago for the purpose of using it as a guinea pig for some new projects.

 

I'm currently working on and mostly finished with some front coilover mounts for Ed (sanitys) using the qa1 coilovers.

 

They will be a drop on and weld affair, and could be installed by anyone with a grinder and a welder. I was able to get 1.25" of static drop with the shock adjusted all the way up. This is with no weight on the front, so we'll see what Ed gets out of it once they're on his truck. Unfortunately, the upper mount is as high as it will go before the shock/spring collides with the frame; so it will have to do.

 

Let me know what you think, these pics are of mock up; I will have fully welded pics monday/tuesday.

 

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These parts are all made of 1/4" steel, and the bolt holes are drilled for precision. There will be a piece of DOM in the hole for alignment of the upper part with the original shock tower.

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Guest DatsuNoob

Those are the coilovers that came out right after I purchased mine :mad: dammit! Very nice! I like that they have not only the dampening adjustment, but the new rebound control knob that changes the speed of the ram inside the shock. Very cool :cool:. I cant wait to hear how your measurements turn out under the load of a motor and trans. I'll be attempting the same thing soon, but a little apprehensive right now, taking a stab in the dark at where things will sit without any load. I gotta make sure I have enough suspension travel. What are you charging for a set of your brackets out of curiosity?

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Jason thats gonna be a sweet setup. Do you have a link for the coilovers ?

 

heres where i bought them from and shipped them to jason. For the dual adjustable w/ 7 inch 400lb springs the total was 594 dollars (shipped to oregon). I think the single adjustables are half that...

 

DDR3855 coilovers

 

http://autofabcart.net/qa1promostarshocks-1.aspx

 

springs

 

http://autofabcart.net/qa1powdercoatedlinearratesprings-25id.aspx

Edited by sanitys
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Couldnt the bracket have been less. By that i mean do away with the side tabs. They look like they are going to interfere with the coilover body/spring cap. Wouldnt a glorified shock relocator bracket do the trick? Obvioulsy it should be beefier than the standard ones and probly needs to push the spring a lil farther away from the frame. Tho it does look like a snug fit between the UCA and the frame. Ill be watchin this. Hopefully these will be refinied and perfected by the time im ready to buy my some UCA's for my 521.

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There is plenty of room around the uca's and the coil. The upper mount needs to wrap around the stock shock tower so it's solid....this is holding the weight of the truck you know. There is no conlflicts between the coilover and the frame either, that's why I've changed the mounts several times to get the shock in the right place.

 

This is basically the revised version, just need to weld them and make them look prettier. If I get enough people interested in them, I will have them laser cut in the future.

 

I think $150 for the whole set with hardware.

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Looks good. I wouldn't say that are for any one with any welder. Wouldn't touch them if you don't own a 220! Keep up the good work Bee!

 

Good point, although the stock tower is made from 12 gauge steel, but a 220 welder would be the best bet.

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Guest DatsuNoob

B.S. :rolleyes: a 180 amper is plenty good enough, plenty of penetration. My 140 has welded 1/4" steel with flux core wire (not my wire of choice, but will do) with no problems. I ran a couple beads instead of one just in case, but it got the job done. 220 are ideal, but I dont see why guys are scared of anything less. If you're a competent welder, and dont lay down boogery turds for welds, you should be fine.

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B.S. :rolleyes: a 180 amper is plenty good enough, plenty of penetration. My 140 has welded 1/4" steel with flux core wire (not my wire of choice, but will do) with no problems. I ran a couple beads instead of one just in case, but it got the job done. 220 are ideal, but I dont see why guys are scared of anything less. If you're a competent welder, and dont lay down boogery turds for welds, you should be fine.

 

Hello :lol: they are talking about voltage not amps here..:fu:

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well in reality, what a machine says it has for amps don't mean dick! really, cause they can vary. the real power of a machine is measured in voltage output. and roughly a 140 amp machine prolly puts out a MAX of 19 volts, and a 180 amp machine would be right around 21 to 23 volts max. Maximum material thickness for 21 to 23 volts is 5/16 i belive. sure you can weld thicker by beveling joints etc etc, and with the right gas small machines do work well. Small machines also run small diameter wire so they work good. but also have lousy duty cycles thats also due to the fact ya gotta run em cranked to the max alot of times. i have a 440 3 phase miller that i use at work and i weld 1/4 inch material alot! mainly fillet joints and most of the time my machine is set at 26 volts and around 640 wfs with 92/8 gas & 0.35 wire. thats the highest setting i can go in short arc mode after that its all spray arc. in fact my machine actually sprays at 26 volt if i dial down my wfs. as for flux core that gasless flux crap ya run in those 110 machines is worthless junk i would not weld a lawnmower back together with that garbage! real flux core uses straight co2 gas and comes in sizes from 0.45 to 1/16 inch and usually is meant to burn at over 28volts with the exeption of different welding positions and certian brands of wire.

 

heres a pretty neat demo on short arc to spray arc vid

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Hello... dont be a douche, read the thread again:fu:

 

Sorry fuck wad I didnt see the bottom of the post. It totally would have been better if you could have just said yes. But no you had to be a fuck wad.:fu:

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