620 coilover mounts

[sanitys]

Sorry fuck wad I didnt see the bottom of the post. It totally would have been better if you could have just said yes. But no you had to be a fuck wad.:fu:

 

ill post pictures with them welded in, and you can pm/email me with questions regarding the coilovers themselves and the spring rates, or if you have questions about the mount construction beebani would be the person to talk to...

 

ill be using a ka24e w/ 5speed, jason is making those mounts as well for me. Yours might weigh more front wise then mine but ill let you know how mine rides with the 400lb springs... Read finelines coilover thread, he used the qa1's w/ 350lb springs, i decided to go a bit stiffer w/ the 400's

Edited May 22, 2009 by sanitys

[Guest DatsuNoob]

Sorry fuck wad I didnt see the bottom of the post. It totally would have been better if you could have just said yes. But no you had to be a fuck wad.:fu:

 

It totally would have been better, if you'd just read the thread yourself instead of trying to be the cool guy who likes to show off by trying to rip on someone. Dont leave yourself open for getting shit flipped your way if you cant handle it. Certainly sounds like you have no problem dishing it out, but get all bent like a little girl when someone gives you a dose of your own sarcasm. I'm glad a little pointless internet shit talking made you feel like you had a pair. Way to go. If you're gonna say something retarded, dont get your little feelers hurt when someone pokes fun at you. I was just stating earlier that a 220V welder isnt absolutely necessary, so dont be a douche.

Edited May 22, 2009 by DatsuNoob

[Guest DatsuNoob]

I still like your mounts though Jason :lol: they look real good. Did you ever figure out how much susp travel/ride height there is on those QA1's with the brackets mounted where they are? Very curious to hear about that, thanks

[BEEBANI]

I still like your mounts though Jason :lol: they look real good. Did you ever figure out how much susp travel/ride height there is on those QA1's with the brackets mounted where they are? Very curious to hear about that, thanks

 

won't know for sure until Ed mounts them on his truck. I'm using a bare frame with not weight on it. I jumped up and down on it, but it didn't do much!

[Jester]

I'm glad a little pointless internet shit talking made you feel like you had a pair.

 

:lol::lol::lol:

 

I jumped up and down on it, but it didn't do much!

 

:D Oh....come on. :lol::lol:

[808DA6]

Just my $.02 on the total travel question. Tack the upper in place and install the shock w/o the spring in there. Check ride travel w/ a jack under the LCA. You may have to get creative with some vise grips to secure the lower mount(or just tack in place). Optimally, you want the bumpstops to meet the arms before the shocks bottom out or are at full droop. QA1's have a optimum operation range. Outside of that and the damper isn't as effective and you stand a chance to damaging the shock beyond warranty. :)

 

-Brian

[69FJWagon]

I jumped up and down on it, but it didn't do much!

 

:D Oh....come on. :lol::lol:

 

:lol::lol::lol: :eek: :fu:

[72 327]

ill post pictures with them welded in, and you can pm/email me with questions regarding the coilovers themselves and the spring rates, or if you have questions about the mount construction beebani would be the person to talk to...

 

ill be using a ka24e w/ 5speed, jason is making those mounts as well for me. Yours might weigh more front wise then mine but ill let you know how mine rides with the 400lb springs... Read finelines coilover thread, he used the qa1's w/ 350lb springs, i decided to go a bit stiffer w/ the 400's

 

Sweet Ill Pm you on that, Thanks

 

It totally would have been better, if you'd just read the thread yourself instead of trying to be the cool guy who likes to show off by trying to rip on someone. Dont leave yourself open for getting shit flipped your way if you cant handle it. Certainly sounds like you have no problem dishing it out, but get all bent like a little girl when someone gives you a dose of your own sarcasm. I'm glad a little pointless internet shit talking made you feel like you had a pair. Way to go. If you're gonna say something retarded, dont get your little feelers hurt when someone pokes fun at you. I was just stating earlier that a 220V welder isnt absolutely necessary, so dont be a douche.

 

I was not offend by the fact you caught me on a MISREAD my bad on that part. But the fact you called me a douche. Total not necessary.

[Guest DatsuNoob]

Just my $.02 on the total travel question. Tack the upper in place and install the shock w/o the spring in there. Check ride travel w/ a jack under the LCA. You may have to get creative with some vise grips to secure the lower mount(or just tack in place). Optimally, you want the bumpstops to meet the arms before the shocks bottom out or are at full droop. QA1's have a optimum operation range. Outside of that and the damper isn't as effective and you stand a chance to damaging the shock beyond warranty. :)

 

-Brian

 

Makes sense, I've been thinking of it for a while. You still have to factor in where the front end will sit under a load though prior to doing all that though right? How? would you just figure out the weight of the motor and trans and subtract that from the weight rating of the spring? :confused:

[sanitys]

Makes sense, I've been thinking of it for a while. You still have to factor in where the front end will sit under a load though prior to doing all that though right? How? would you just figure out the weight of the motor and trans and subtract that from the weight rating of the spring? :confused:

 

fineline used a 300lb sping, said it was alittle too soft, he went up to a 350lb spring and said it was good. I wanted to try a 400lb springs. If i need to drop back down to 350lbs no biggie.

[Guest DatsuNoob]

Wonder how a 300lb spring would do in the rear (with a different susp setup later on down the road), since there's hardly any weight back there compared to the front.

[sanitys]

Wonder how a 300lb spring would do in the rear (with a different susp setup later on down the road), since there's hardly any weight back there compared to the front.

 

one could get the rates for the stock torsions and the rear leafs, and whatever ratio it comes out to do that ratio with the springs. Thats what i would do if i were changing the back as well.

[Braden]

im sorry to say this and i dont mean to be an asshole but you could use some practice on your welds, if i was welding 1/4 inch plate i would run about 180/180 as in 180 inches per minute, and 180 volts, and yes a 220v welder, i use a lincoln power mig 350mp, and a preciscion tig 275 and 225 and can produce welds that look like they are from a machine, mig is easy in any position, alot of people think that because your mig welding something you have to move fast, YOU DONT, if you can read your weld pool good then you can go fairly slow and get awesome penetration, depending on what size wire you are using you could run a 3 pass fillet on those t joints and never worry about them breaking, from what i can see in your welds you need to slow down and use a bit of a circular motion with the tip of your gun, the sizzile should sound fast and then slow down a bit as you circle around, and remember practice practice practice!!!! good luck :)

Here's the finished products:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[sanitys]

all welds have held up with about 1k miles so far, there arent any signs of breakage.

[BEEBANI]

Thanks for the tips, I'm sure in the 20 years I've been welding I would've figured that out!?

 

I had plenty of amperage for 1/4" plate, I did oscillate, and was going plenty slow enough. You don't need more than 1/4"-3/8" fillet on 1/4" plate. I welded these with a miller 350P with .035 wire. I was trying to keep the warpage down.

[Jester]

Oh just admit it, your welding sucks. The newbie has you pegged. :lol::fu:

[BEEBANI]

Oh just admit it, your welding sucks. The newbie has you pegged. :lol::fu:

 

 

Yeah, I hope your rear calipers stay on!:lol::fu:

[jesusno2]

3 passes on a 1/4 inch T joint:eek: christ and what? 18 volts and 180 ipm? with what gas co2? i run 1/4 inch military spec parts all day every fuckin day at a min of 24.5 volts 640 ipm with 92/8 gas sometimes i run em 26 volts if i have to bust out a quota buy weeks end. 18volts is like for 14 guage sheetmetal material.

[slodat]

Hey kid, you need to take a look at Ohm's Law..

[Bugeye]

:blink::blink::blink::blink:

[Jester]

Needs to learn how much weld to put on something too. You don't NEED a weld bigger than the thickness of your material when your material has the same strength characteristics as your filler metal. I've been welding for 18 years. :fu:

 

EDIT: Hell, my hard hat is probably older than you.

[slodat]

Hell, my hard hat is probably older than you.

 

You should probably go ahead and replace it :D

[jesusno2]

well if ya wanna have a "weld off" contest i'll be happy to post pics anytime. look son i was 18 once too i thought i was the best welder ever. first off i think you mean 180 amps not 180 volts. any welder knows that what the settings are on the inside panel of your welder are "general" settings its a starting point to work with. different gases create different kinds of settings for instance does the inside of your welder tell you how to spray arc? does it give settings for overhead, vertical? prolly not. basically my point is that 3 passes are not needed for 1/4 plate and what's vertical downhill? if your talking about down hill hardwire passes thats really a big no no in the real world alot of people do it, and it works for what most people weld at home or for hobby, its fine. a down hill pass will fail a stress test 100% everytime.

 

75/25 is not the best penetrating gas, nor is really hardwire period. fluxcore or metalcore penetrates far more with 100% co2 gas than hardwire ever could. but again not necesarry for 1/4 plate and really overkill for home/hobby jobs. alot of people have no knowledge of how strong a good weld is.

 

im guessing your welds look simuliar to this pic i have when i was testing peices on my buddys 110 volt cheapo clarke welder with 75/25 it looks ok but not the strongest weld notice the toes of the weld and how spaced apart they are a strong weld will be smooth and solid at the top and bottom and when its set right oscillation is childs play.

[Jester]

You should probably go ahead and replace it :D

 

 

:D:D Hell no. Aluminum is light. :D Did I just say I wear an aluminum hardhat? :eek: :fu:

[mklotz70]

I'd love to see a "weld off" but for the sake of Bee's thread....how about you guys continue the welding stuff in the welding thread?? :)

 

http://forum.ratsun.net/showthread.php?t=8000