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710's unite!!!!!!!!


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#1241 datsunfreak

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Posted 15 July 2016 - 03:47 PM

Yes, but as he said, if that thing moved down, it also stops spinning the distributor.

 

You can not spin the distributor and simultaneously not spin the oil pump. Once that gear moves off it's intended spot, both stop spinning. The shaft itself stops spinning. There has to be a problem elsewhere... 

 

 

 

Screenshot_2016-07-15-06-39-02_zpsc06crn


It's your car, just don't ruin it.


This seems like an elaborate ploy to get me to say "I like the D".


#1242 datzenmike

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Posted 15 July 2016 - 04:40 PM

The spindle can't sit too far up inside for the oil pump to not engage it. There is just enough room between the installed distributor and oil pump for the drive spindle to fit between.

 

That 'gear' is an interference fit to the spindle shaft. Only way to move it is to heat with a torch and press it off, I know, I did this once.

 

 

Hammering the spindle into the oil pump is probably not a bright idea. If it didn't fit there was probably a good reason. 


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#1243 logiccreations

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Posted 15 July 2016 - 04:48 PM

we didnt hammer it into the pump we hit the top of the bar to push the spindle up, i understand that its "not possible" but that is what happend after we moved the gear it worked fine, but the damage was done. now back to my original question. put the 620 engine in the car or try to fix the rusted frame?



#1244 Lockleaf

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Posted 15 July 2016 - 06:11 PM

Seems like any easy question. Do you want to drive a truck or a car?

Half Pint ('71 510 Goon) http://community.rat...agon/p?=1269361

 

Audrey ('69 Roadster 1600) http://community.rat...rey-the-ratster

 

Tiny Havok ('85 720 DIY built Crewcab 4x4) http://community.rat...ache/?p=1395455

 

720 Shenanigans http://community.rat...20-shenanigans/


#1245 datzenmike

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Posted 15 July 2016 - 07:30 PM

If the spindle was hammered upward it would be even further from the oil pump. Hammering is no way to fix an engine. Yes, your statements make no sense at all.

 

If the rod bearing spun it probably was not installed properly or not torqued. They don't spin without making one hell of a noise first. You would have heard it knocking.


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#1246 INDY510

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Posted 23 October 2016 - 08:18 PM

saw this pic on facebook .... drool:

 

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#1247 Sastis

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Posted 14 July 2017 - 07:39 PM

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#1248 Abe Froman

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Posted 18 July 2017 - 09:52 PM

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#1249 710

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Posted 28 September 2017 - 10:36 AM

Hello fellow 710'ers. "710" here, a relic from the analog era (meaning I'm older than my 1974 710). Hence, my difficulties navigating the electronic world of Ratsun to find one little part you may have seen me murmur about over the lat 2 years as I  have sought to post, and answer posts in the classified (and when that didn't work emailing members with "710" somewhere in their member ID) FOR ONE PIECE OF REAR WINDOW CORNER TRIM  for my 1974 710 sedan SO I CAN GET ON WITH COMPLETING MY BODYWORK/PAINTING of the vehicle.

 

Can I get some love here? Even if you don't have any leads on parts?

 

And by the way, anybody replaced their original Hitachi carb with a Weber? I've heard that's a good thing to do on these leaky carbs, and I'm am little sick of only 18-20 mpg.

 

Weber site lists 3 options- the $230, $290 and $300 kits.



#1250 datzenmike

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Posted 28 September 2017 - 11:11 AM

A good rebuild kit is about $30 and a new Weber about 10X that. The stock carb is the best over all for everything. My L20B 710 wagon gets 29.9 US on trips. Lots of things are corrrected by just adjustments. And don't discount a good tune up for better mileage.


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#1251 Greased monkey

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Posted 24 October 2017 - 05:45 AM

saw this pic on facebook .... drool:

 

30418739151_fb6bf6e84e_c.jpg

im pretty sure i tried to buy this from you but some reason didnt want to sell it to someone in japan :)



#1252 datzenmike

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Posted 24 October 2017 - 06:03 AM

Mmmmm smiley bumper....


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