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710's unite!!!!!!!!


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#41 mikko1200

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Posted 08 January 2010 - 02:30 AM

You're right! I checked and the 610 to July '73 with L18s were PL610s.

My info shows the 710 as HL710 with all L18 motors.

In the 620s L16 were used till '73 and L18 to '74 and were both labeled PL620. L20Bs were the first HL620s

Go figure.


Yep, J stands for solid rear axle. And K is for coupe as usually. H is not necessarily associated with L18. Very often it stands for “the second biggest engine”, but not always. I haven´t figured out the logic behind this yet.
For example HLB310-> H=A14, L=LHD and B310 is body style. Again PLB310->P=A15 (the biggest engine available) and the rest is the same.
On the other hand, H is missing from the F10 series code. LF10->[blank]=A12, L=LHD and F10 is body style. Usually no engine code means the smallest engine, but this case the A10 powered version is BLF10. And like many other models (but not all of them), P stands for the biggest engine->A14 powered version is PLF10 (and coupe naturally is KPLF10).
Then there´s also bunch of letters after the model code. They define marketing area (Europe, USA etc.) and is Deluxe, SSS or what. But those letters are not visible in the code stamped on the car.
I would say there is a certain logic behind Nissan model codes, but at the same time it is highly illogical. I´m currently studying them. I´m writing an article about the codes together with couple of fellow Datsun enthusiasts. It will be published in the Nissan Club of Finland club magazine. Our research is still in very early state and I don´t know when the study is ready to bee published.

edit: zerow was faster than me...it is even more confusing if P is for L18 in US...I think those letters go after JDM models and since US models had "over sized engines" the logic iss gone?
1200-LB110, 120Y-LB210, 100A-LE10, 160J-JPL710, 180B SSS HT-KPL610, 1600-PL510, F-10 Sports Hatchback-KPLF10 etc...

#42 DatsunLove

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Posted 03 February 2010 - 08:22 PM

Im getting a 710 goon. I am going to make a couple payments on it. I will have it in a few weeks.

#43 INDY510

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Posted 03 February 2010 - 10:52 PM

Pics or it didn't happen

Posted Image

#44 DatsunLove

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Posted 04 February 2010 - 10:07 PM

it will happen in a few weeks so ill post em then

#45 bonvo

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Posted 22 February 2010 - 10:22 PM


Bonvo, does your sales docs show a Suffix code group??


that is a very good question ill check it as soon as i get home and report back on that

the first rule of Ratsun is you don't talk about Ratsun... no wait thats fight club.....


....the first rule of Ratsun is PICS OR BAN! :fu:



http://community.rat...on-resurection/
http://www.build-thr...1/#comment-5259

http://community.rat...-bought-a-what/

 

its like pikachu cuz its always his go to, the ol relaiable, looks cute kicks ass on the reg. and the 610 is charizard.... when ya really need to lay down some shit. lol - skib

 


#46 MikeRL411

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Posted 23 February 2010 - 08:13 AM

that is a very good question ill check it as soon as i get home and report back on that


Prefix and Suffix codes do have some [repeat some, but not much] logic. My car is a RL411UAK. First letter R, P is the usual leadin for the 411 and was formerly the largest [J13] engine. When the car was redesigned as the SSS with a modified 1600 R engine it was a no brainer to change P to R. L is left hand drive. 411 is the basic model. U is USA and Canadian export spec. A is for the Borg Warner automatic transmission, manual transmission cars have a T here. K stands for Hitachi "SU" dual carburators [think Karburettor to mess up the British spelling]. If it was a wagon, the whole designation would be preceeded by a W as in WRL411UTK.

#47 Hello710

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Posted 24 February 2010 - 11:38 AM

hey whats up guys im new but i do have a 710 so ill post up pics in a bit :)

here is the pic i hope i got the right code haha


Posted Image

#48 bonvo

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Posted 24 February 2010 - 12:45 PM

more!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

the first rule of Ratsun is you don't talk about Ratsun... no wait thats fight club.....


....the first rule of Ratsun is PICS OR BAN! :fu:



http://community.rat...on-resurection/
http://www.build-thr...1/#comment-5259

http://community.rat...-bought-a-what/

 

its like pikachu cuz its always his go to, the ol relaiable, looks cute kicks ass on the reg. and the 610 is charizard.... when ya really need to lay down some shit. lol - skib

 


#49 datzenmike

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Posted 24 February 2010 - 01:15 PM

Yes indeedy!!!
Posted Image

#50 1_Bad_710

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Posted 28 February 2010 - 06:41 AM

Hey guys new here. Here are some pictures of my 710, I plan on doing a lot more work and completely restore it and lower it. All work was done by me.

Before:

Posted Image

After:

Posted Image

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Hope you like it, and I hope to learn a lot from this site.



#51 datzenmike

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Posted 28 February 2010 - 10:55 AM

I just can't believe I'm going to say this but... it needs lowering a bit. Hummmm ... that weren't so bad. I see you have those tapered front marker lights. Did all wagons not have the matching red ones at the back? Also the 'bumpers' look way better blacked out like that... may do that myself.
Posted Image

#52 INDY510

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Posted 28 February 2010 - 01:44 PM

I just can't believe I'm going to say this but...

HaHa Ha ha ha ....... ... welcome to the dark side ..... :lol:

I was very dissapointed at how the rear suspension on my 710 goon is never going to be low enough......
I put 300lbs in the back,,, .. and the axle was 1" from the bumpstops and I still had a 3-4" wheel gap

I have given up on trying to lower my 710.......... it feels SO good with the "soft" stock suspension and 13" wheels
It was dragging the exaust with the coilovers,,, ... and was too stiff for a wagon with #225 front springs

I just can't believe I'm going to say this,,, but don't lower it........ maybe 1-2", but no more..... any more than a 2" lowering block will require cutting the drive-shaft tunnel...... and your front wheels will rub if you lower it more than 1-2 inches.

#53 Abe Froman

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Posted 08 March 2010 - 02:06 PM

I found the 1974 Still for sale,

Posted Image Posted Image


My link

#54 1_Bad_710

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Posted 10 March 2010 - 10:26 AM

HaHa Ha ha ha ....... ... welcome to the dark side ..... Posted Image

I was very dissapointed at how the rear suspension on my 710 goon is never going to be low enough......
I put 300lbs in the back,,, .. and the axle was 1" from the bumpstops and I still had a 3-4" wheel gap

I have given up on trying to lower my 710.......... it feels SO good with the "soft" stock suspension and 13" wheels
It was dragging the exaust with the coilovers,,, ... and was too stiff for a wagon with #225 front springs

I just can't believe I'm going to say this,,, but don't lower it........ maybe 1-2", but no more..... any more than a 2" lowering block will require cutting the drive-shaft tunnel...... and your front wheels will rub if you lower it more than 1-2 inches.



Don't lower it? Really? You see I raised it so I can try and go for the off road look, but the springs ended up being too high, and since I put the 5 spd in there out of a 280Z I had to cut the driveshaft anyways. My front wheels are 15 inch and they rub, even with 195/50/15's. I'm still unsure as to what performance parts to start buying for it, all I know is that I want to keep it as my daily driver but with a little extra. What would you suggest for lowering the front?

#55 INDY510

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Posted 10 March 2010 - 10:49 AM

I put my shortened 510 struts with coilovers on my 710 wagon...... with 16x7 +22mm panasports and 195/40/16 tires

It was WAY too low,,,, the exaust was dragging on the ground and the wheels were rubbing on the fenders with the coilovers raised up all the way.

Here is a pic of the coilovers raised all the way:

Posted Image

AND a pic of the coilvers lowered most of the way....... my oil pan is 3/4" off the ground in this pic:

Posted Image

I think 280zx struts will widen the front too much.... your better off with 510 struts so you can keep a lower offset wheel........ my 510 struts were shortened ~2 inches and the #225 springs were too stiff for a 710 wagon.......... or you could put coilovers on your 710 struts

I reccomend a #200 spring, but depending on how low you want to go I don't think your front wheels will fit.

For a cheaper solution you could probably find some stiffer "non-adjustable" springs and lower the front 1-2 inches

and since I put the 5 spd in there out of a 280Z I had to cut the driveshaft anyways.

I was talking about cutting the driveshaft tunnel,,,, most 510 wagons with 3" lowering blocks in the rear have "axle slap"...... and need to cut a small piece under the rear seat to stop the driveshaft from hitting the body....
That is why I want to keep my stock suspension and 13" wheels...... and it is nice to go over speed bumps again
If you look in the "GOONS check in" thread there is some great info on lowering 510 wagons

#56 zerow

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Posted 10 March 2010 - 11:12 AM

I think 280zx struts will widen the front too much....


280ZX struts on a 10-series car actually narrow the front track by 3/4" on each side. Thats almost the 22mm you have for the wheels...
Posted Image

I saw three of these parked outside the local Starbucks this morning, which tells me only one thing. There's too many self indulgent wieners in this city with too much bloody money. Now, if I was driving a 1973 610 four-door...
You would not be a self indulgent wiener, sir. You'd be a connoisseur.
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Drive a DATSUN, Then Decide.

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#57 bonvo

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Posted 10 March 2010 - 12:16 PM

i think that your shortened 510 struts are just to short to be honist

the first rule of Ratsun is you don't talk about Ratsun... no wait thats fight club.....


....the first rule of Ratsun is PICS OR BAN! :fu:



http://community.rat...on-resurection/
http://www.build-thr...1/#comment-5259

http://community.rat...-bought-a-what/

 

its like pikachu cuz its always his go to, the ol relaiable, looks cute kicks ass on the reg. and the 610 is charizard.... when ya really need to lay down some shit. lol - skib

 


#58 Datsun-San

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Posted 16 March 2010 - 11:40 AM

Feeling pretty embarrassed right now. I took my 710 to Carb Connection outside Redmond Saturday hoping to figure out the rough idling issues that have been with the car since I bought her nearly a year ago. I’m running just about everything stock except for the AC motor which had been disconnected by the previous owner (never felt a need to hook it back up again.) Well, to cut to the chase, out of what is it, 120 horsepower? I registered a rough 64.37 hp on the 3-speed auto during the dyno test. I always thought the car ran a little rough, but just thought the 710 was just a mule, performance wise. I thought my car was running all it could give, I was so wrong! :sweat: Anyway, turns out one of the intake barrels isn’t cutting in until I drop the car into high revving 1st gear up a hill. Presumably due to the vacuum that builds up in the chamber that blows the barrel into a working status. I’m getting the 710 checked out today after school, and hopefully I’ll have a difference of night and day when the carb connection guys properly rebuild and re-tune it! Besides this little snag, the car still runs great!
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#59 bonvo

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Posted 19 March 2010 - 06:53 PM

Feeling pretty embarrassed right now. I took my 710 to Carb Connection outside Redmond Saturday hoping to figure out the rough idling issues that have been with the car since I bought her nearly a year ago. I’m running just about everything stock except for the AC motor which had been disconnected by the previous owner (never felt a need to hook it back up again.) Well, to cut to the chase, out of what is it, 120 horsepower? I registered a rough 64.37 hp on the 3-speed auto during the dyno test. I always thought the car ran a little rough, but just thought the 710 was just a mule, performance wise. I thought my car was running all it could give, I was so wrong! :sweat: Anyway, turns out one of the intake barrels isn’t cutting in until I drop the car into high revving 1st gear up a hill. Presumably due to the vacuum that builds up in the chamber that blows the barrel into a working status. I’m getting the 710 checked out today after school, and hopefully I’ll have a difference of night and day when the carb connection guys properly rebuild and re-tune it! Besides this little snag, the car still runs great!


well first things firstthe 120 hp number is way out there for a stock car you will be lucky to get 70 stock at the wheels as for the carb if its the stock hitachi take it off and throw it in the garbage and go with a weber 32/36 you wont regret it

the first rule of Ratsun is you don't talk about Ratsun... no wait thats fight club.....


....the first rule of Ratsun is PICS OR BAN! :fu:



http://community.rat...on-resurection/
http://www.build-thr...1/#comment-5259

http://community.rat...-bought-a-what/

 

its like pikachu cuz its always his go to, the ol relaiable, looks cute kicks ass on the reg. and the 610 is charizard.... when ya really need to lay down some shit. lol - skib

 


#60 Datsun-San

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Posted 19 March 2010 - 06:59 PM

well first things firstthe 120 hp number is way out there for a stock car you will be lucky to get 70 stock at the wheels as for the carb if its the stock hitachi take it off and throw it in the garbage and go with a weber 32/36 you wont regret it


Well, I took it back to Carb Connections. They completely rebuild and tuned the hitatchi back up beyond it stock specifications. They skimmed the intake manifold flat before replacing all of the seals, which should prevent any future leaks in the system. I'm currently running 96 at the wheels on the dyno and the difference is as though I'm driving a whole other car. I've got some lower ball joints to replace (will do on Sunday), but besides that the car runs and sounds like a dream!
"The manliest thing I can think of is owning a Fairlady..."

-1969 1600 Roadster
-1974 Datsun 260z
-1975 Datsun 710