List of possible L series engine builds.

[dimedriver]

Mike, wouldn't a Z24 with a KA head endup being just another KA24? Although the bock is a little different and would probably fix the oilpan problems with the normal KA swap.

 

 

-Avery

[benzo]

yeah that is why I was going to use a Z24 block as I have one already and just need a top end portion. This would help with not making a crossmember and also I can use the L series distributor.

[datzenmike]

Mike, wouldn't a Z24 with a KA head endup being just another KA24? Although the bock is a little different and would probably fix the oilpan problems with the normal KA swap.

 

 

-Avery

 

Z24 with KA head would be a 'sort of' KA24. The Z24 pistons would produce a lower compression and the Z24 rods wouldn't have the KA oil squirters on them.

[dimedriver]

Found some info for the DOHC KA head. Looks like only some grinding of the Z20 tensioner maybe needed and a chain that is missing a few links.

 

This was posted by Beef on OZdat.com

http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=48103#p48103

This is probably a good time for me to mention my "progress" on the timing chain stuff.

 

The photo attached shows a Z20 curved guide fitted (upper chain is draped over sprocket for representation). As you can see, it looks promising. I've modified the top of the chain guide (near the bolt) for clearance to the gasket, and I've lengthened the bolt's slot to allow the guide to move further to the left. This needs to be done for clearance to the chain & sprocket.

 

I've also dummy fitted a Z20 straight guide, and that looks the goods.

 

This isn't finalised yet because I need the 18T sprocket on the crank to continue. I've found that small changes to things like that, can effect the amount of slack in the chain by a surprisingly large amount. So I'm not home free yet.

 

I'm posting this now because of the interest in fitting this head to the L16/18 block. As you can see in the pic, the guide is a decent fit to the idler sprocket - but what would happen if you move the sprocket down by 20mm (because of the shorter block)? Not entirely sure, but it doesn't look good.

 

I think you'd have to shorten up the chain guide - and exactly how you make a decent job of it, I don't know.

 

Not my problem! :P For those that are keen on this head on the shorter block - it's something you'll need to think about.

 

 

[Dirttrack510]

Ok, maybe a dumb question... How hard would it be to put a L series head on a KA24DE engine? :crying: I found a fully race prepped KA24DE for sale with no head, but I have a fully race prepped L series head sitting on the shelf. :devil: Could I use an L20 timing cover and use a traditional dizzy too? I know NOTHING about KA series motors... :no:

[datzenmike]

The bore spacing and bolt locations are the same.

 

The L head has a water passage where the LA block has an oil drain back opening on the rear left. You would have to seal that up somehow.

 

The L20B timing cover will be 3/4" too short and besides the L water pump pushes water into the block on the right side... the KA is on the left. In addition the block is vented through the timing cover on the KA an L cover won't work.

 

KA heads are common and an L head, even modified, won't equal the flow of a DE.

[Dirttrack510]

Ok, so much for big cheap HP, thanks for crushing my dreams mike :P

[datzenmike]

I could make something up if it would help.....

[Dirttrack510]

Hahaha... no, I'm good. Thanks

[CableDroid]

Will a KA24E crankshaft fit in a L20b block with L series rods?

[datzenmike]

No, the KA mains are very much narrower. Here are mine....

 

Can you believe they run 150+ hp on the little main bearings on the right. Christ, the L series on the left could support the Golden Gate Bridge.