turbo for my truck?

[SHADY280]

so i was wondering, my little truck could really use more power. so, ive been offered a turbo from a friend, its small, but thats perfect for my 1.8. is there a efi setup that fits the 1.8 head, or could i use my webber and just push air down its throat. do you have to use bigger jets? its all kinda new to me as the z car is n/a. turbo just suits my ratsun i figure. i almost wonder if a could cut up my spare l28 manifold, and just plug the end or something like that, and run efi that way. im just thinking, you guys are the pros at this stuff.

[Bleach]

1. EFI setup made for the 1.8 head?

yes, its JDM only and very rare. High dollars if you find one. Maybe $200-400 for the manifold

 

2. Push air in Weber?

no, carbs are made for draw through. Pushing air in will pressurize the carb and push the fuel back into the bowl, not suck it out. You need a special carb setup and sometimes the carb has to be completely sealed into an airtight chamber. Sucking the air from the bottom of the carb into the turbo and then piping it into the manifold is another old school turbo method.

 

3. Cut up L28 intake manifold?

yes, it has been done before due to the L18 EFI manifold being so rare. Plus the L28 has slightly larger runners.

[datzenmike]

so i was wondering, my little truck could really use more power. so, ive been offered a turbo from a friend, its small, but thats perfect for my 1.8. is there a efi setup that fits the 1.8 head, or could i use my webber and just push air down its throat. do you have to use bigger jets? its all kinda new to me as the z car is n/a. turbo just suits my ratsun i figure. i almost wonder if a could cut up my spare l28 manifold, and just plug the end or something like that, and run efi that way. im just thinking, you guys are the pros at this stuff.

 

Theres a guy on 'The Realm', chris (hairfaus) who welded up an L26 or L28 manifold that he cut, to make fit L20B. Did a super job and then made a log manifold and went with that. He might still have the old one.

[SHADY280]

i got a t.i.g welder, so making the manifold from an old z one is no biggie, just wanted options, ill look for the guy on the realm, and see if he still has the manifold, thanks mike. so if i wanted a carb setup, the air/fuel mixture actually goes thru the turbo, and doesnt ignite under the pressure and heat? that may work for me, im only gonna push 10-15 psi tops, under no circumstances more. and im planning for future here, not next week. research will be my freind for some time. i just wanted to play the field and see what the outcome is. keep the info coming!! hey mike i cant get in 510realm right now, any way you could ask him for me? it say i gotta disable cookies, i did, but it still aint working.

[datzenmike]

Yes it's called a draw through or suck through system. The turbo isn't that hot inside and the vaporising gas actually cools it some. As it is compressed the temp does rise but again no where near what it would take to ignite it. Inside the head is another story as it gets blistering hot in there. But still not hot enough, yet. Problems crop up on the compression stroke as the already warm air/fuel is squeezed yet again, confining and intensifying the heat in a smaller space. This is where a higher octane fuel helps, think of it as an increased measure of resistance to ignition. High octane gas will resist pre ignition best, but a high boost turbo can easily exceed these are limits.

 

Heat in the air fuel is your enemy: the more heat the easier the motor will ping under boost conditions. What you can do to reduce this is:

Supply cool outside air to your carb from in front of the radiator.

Insulate the intake from the heat given off by the turbo and the exhaust pipe with shielding or insulation (what else)

Water injection. A small amount of water or a blend of water and alcohol can be sprayed into the carb and through the turbo during boost. It will turn into steam and absorb heat, lessening pre ignition. Done properly it has very little effect on power.

 

Preventing pre ignition is better than dealing with it later. It can and will fry a motor in a frighteningly short time if not corrected. Your ignition can be retarded during boost to correct it but at a slight loss of power. Again, best to prevent than deal with it (if possible).

 

10-15 lbs is a bit much for stock pistons. They won't take that heat or the pounding. You got to figure at 15 lbs you are theoretically running twice the fuel and air through your engine.. so.. twice the heat. To keep it together at that boost you need to get rid of this heat and fast.

 

You should look at a higher volume oil pump with higher pressure (10 lbs for every 1,000 RPMs you expect to run), an oil cooler, and a larger rad with extra fans and turbo or forged pistons. The stock head should be O ringed to prevent gasket failure, and with that much boost it will blow.

 

A stock motor is iffy at 5-8 lbs.

[datzenmike]

Contacted Chris and the manifold is ... unavailable. However he gave me this...

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-N42-intake-manifold-240z-280z-not-e33-L24-L28_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ36474QQihZ017QQitemZ270156954725QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

 

This is the manifold to use, in his words...

 

You need to use a N42 intake manifold. I did not know this until late in the project. There is one on Ebay right now and I am pretty sure that many people could competently do the mod if they can tig weld. It is actually very easy. Chop the middle out and bolt one side to a head. Take the other side and slowly grind of thin layers until it bolts on right next to it with a very thin gap to weld up.

 

Later,

Chris

 

One thing... the L20B head will have to be notched for injectors, and a because the injectors are now in the way two new studs will also need to be installed to bolt it down. No biggie I think. This would give you a mount for the throttle body, the intake, and the injector mounts. It would also look factory.

 

I cut these notches in about 10 min for all four...

 

http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q251/datzenmike/00770024.jpg[/img]"]

[Guest DatsuNoob]

looks good Mike! I get all excited about the idea of someone doing a turbo or SC on an old L motor :cool:

[SHADY280]

i also have a new option, i have access to one of the 8 spark plug motors, zaps head? well i may be buying the whole truck, 85 kingcab, for 700 bux, and then its fuel injected, well i hope at least, havent even looked yet, but at least its new technology, or i may still figure out how to turbo the little 1.8L. i would kinda rather stick with the little L motor tho, i love them lots, almost bullet proof, almost.

[datzenmike]

The Z24 I'm working on was only ever used in the Nissan trucks and did not have injector notches... funny that the intake/head gasket did?? Maybe in Japan?

 

I think in '85 you could get the Z24 in electric feedback carb (a great idea in theory, but difficult to trouble shoot because of complexity) OR throttle body injection. '86 through '89? was TBI.

 

Although the Z20/22/24 head will fit the L series it's larger chambers would give a 7 to 1 CR besides the fact that they would give a negative performance potential. That said, a turbo on a NAPS head motor would be a different story. The NAPS heads are poor breathers at RPM and are limited by the engine's ability to suck air through the ports and valves but that all changes with forced induction. A turbo would do the work and cram the air/fuel in there. Two advantages of the Z heads are dual plugs and cross flow valve set up. The dual plugs shorten up the burn time and the cross flow heads gets the intake on the other side of the motor and leaves lots of room for the turbo plumbing, (and IC?). One other thing is the NAPS cam, it's not very agressive... perfect candidate for a turbo.

 

With a Z motor you will need the Z tranny too.

[Bleach]

I dont' even think the 1985 trucks are injected. They still run a carb. In the Hardbody from 1986-89 they run the Z24 with throttle body injection.

 

For a drawthrough carb turbo, your fuel mixture is not going to be very exact. I'd suggest 7psi as an absolute max and with that setup you can't really run an intercooler. Your fuel vapors would collect on the sides of the intake piping and start to form drops again. Gotta keep it short and simple from the turbo straight to the intake.

 

Just go with point fuel injection on the L-series or no forced induction at all. that's my suggestion.

 

Z-series engines have never been a favorite of mine. Maybe go with the KA24e or DE since they already have point injection manifolds and even turbo kits you can buy. Why make it harder than it has to be? :D

[nismopu]

A couple guys on nissancustoms.com claim to have injected 85's so I believe some were produced just not enough to be recognized. peace.

[datzenmike]

There was one year when both were available, could have been '86. It could easily be swapped onto an earlier Z24 or even a Z22 I would think. They had the designation Z24i and were throttle body only and uses a crank angle sensor for a distributor so spark timing and advance are computer controlled.

 

I plan to run a multi port and manifold from an '81 200sx on my Z24.

 

Can you imagine a draw through turbo with an intercooler full of compressed fuel and air ... and the engine back fires!

[Bleach]

Can you imagine a draw through turbo with an intercooler full of compressed fuel and air ... and the engine back fires!

uhhh.... vacuum leak? :o

[datzenmike]

When the ringing in your ears stops you can hear the leak. And yeah it was '86. There were five possible motors available Z20/Z24/Z24i/VG30i and SD25

[kiznook]

mmm sd25 with a big turbo running bio-diesel mmmm

[datzenmike]

Had a chance to buy one a few years ago for $500, my knee bothers me now from kicking my own ass.

[SHADY280]

i havent even looked at the truck yet, so im just theorizing, and whos to say i dont just sell the truck after the winter. i do like my little L series motor. as it turns out, holley make a carb that is meant for turbo setups, you run it just like a fuel injection, just put the pipe to the top, and press the loud pedal. im not just putting 2.25 exhaust on this little beast for nothing!! thats getting done next week.

[Bleach]

Make sure you mount the muffler securely this time! :D

 

tinka tinka tink

[nismopu]

you expect to make good power on 2.25 pipe with a turbo vehicle? Sounds more like your trying to regulate boost pressure with pipe that small, lol. j/k

Seriously though, your gonna want to go as big as 3 inch and 2.5 would be the minimum I would ever go on a boosted vehcile but I dont know why you would have to. peace.

[SHADY280]

the 2.25 is just cause the truck is n/a and will be for at least a few years, im in planning stages for now, that why i started asking stuff now, plan my route and do it once. and 1.8L turboed, 2.25 will be enough for now, it wont be silly boosted.

[RacnJsn95]

Before I started the engine rebuild on my L20b, I came across an SD25 in a lone datsun in the junkyard. I would to have loved to put that in my 620!!! I've made biodiesel in the past, ran it in my Jetta TDI, would have been the ultimate Datsun 4x4.

 

The junkyard was convinced that it was a special motor, than they also used in forklifts, and wouldn't sell it for less than $1000, with, or without the rest of the truck. I'm fairly certain they never used them in forklifts, and I told them that but they didnt care. They're the kind of yard that will crush it rather than see it go to good use. I never could find any info on the SD25 anyway.

[]2eDeYe]

I know of a few guys with yota 4x4's that are running the 1.9 outta the VW in there rigs ;)

[datzenmike]

Before I started the engine rebuild on my L20b, I came across an SD25 in a lone datsun in the junkyard. I would to have loved to put that in my 620!!! I've made biodiesel in the past, ran it in my Jetta TDI, would have been the ultimate Datsun 4x4.

 

The junkyard was convinced that it was a special motor, than they also used in forklifts, and wouldn't sell it for less than $1000, with, or without the rest of the truck. I'm fairly certain they never used them in forklifts, and I told them that but they didnt care. They're the kind of yard that will crush it rather than see it go to good use. I never could find any info on the SD25 anyway.

 

I did have an item on a turbo for a fork lift SD25 but can't find it. But yeah the SD25 was I think, primarily a lift truck motor. There's a list for a starter for the lift truck..

 

http://item.express.ebay.com/Industrial-Supplies_Parts-Hardware_Forklift-Parts-Accessories_NEW-NISSAN-FORKLIFT-STARTER-SD22-SD25-DIESEL-ENGINE_W0QQitemZ110074226216QQihZ001QQptdnZForkliftQ20PartsQ20Q26Q20AccessoriesQQddnZIndustrialQ20SuppliesQQadnZPartsQ20Q26Q20HardwareQQptdiZ980QQddiZ1462QQadiZ1456QQcmdZExpressItem

 

Diesels are cool in their own way... not high revving, but monster bottom end torque, the fuel contains more energy than gas and is slightly cheaper so you go further with less for less per gal., low maintenance, no ignition system, harder to start if very cold, noisy motor.