datzenmike

Marked it down. On the way home I found a dolly thrown in the bushes on the side of the RR tracks. It sure wasn't there on the walk in. These are the same tracks that pass beside the local WallMart so lots of homeless camp in the neighboring woods, and spring is here. Anyway I walk home and a local girl comes by and does some housework every two weeks, so I borrow her car and go get it. It had a shopping cart tied to it but I wrestled it apart and brought it home. It's a skookum heavy duty dolly with solid tires so no tubes to patch for sure. I can only conclude that it was stolen from a transport truck somewhere up the line and was going to waste in the bushes.

Yeah, thanks. It's been a long trip to get here.

Oil delivery is by RPMs (not working cylinders) so it should be 20 or better at 700. Rev it to 2000 it should easily reach the relief spring pressure of 50-60 PSI. 14s ok for idle as the engine is only making a couple of HP to spin the internals but revved up it should be much more. That 4mm is 0.160" that's huge. On an L head the oil jet is less than half that and it lubricates 8 cam lobes and four cam bearings with enough left over to squirt oil on the chain. On a turbo I assume it more to take away heat.

Check on line for info on a restricter for the oil line to the turbo. I don't think they need that much. There is an article in Club 1200 on modifying an L series oil pump to fit the A series to provide a higher volume output. Someone on here was doing it. I lost track.

I think the 45.5 valve and 45 seat would allow quick wear in and seating. This would have been in the '60s when my dad bought a Dodge Polara and that's all I ever thought about.

This is a coolant recovery cap, see the two rubber seals? It allows coolant out if it exceeds the 13 PSI limit and stores it in the coolant recovery bottle. As long as the hose is submerged in the recovery bottle, when the air in the radiator cools and shrinks it will draw the expelled coolant right back into the radiator keeping it topped off. The radiator should be filled to the top when you check if working properly. All coolant expands when heated and after shut off the temperature inside the block can rise slightly above boiling and the pressure goes up before returning to normal. This is why an air space of an inch or so is used on regular radiators to allow for expansion. I used to top up a cup or so every week in the summer, but after installing the coolant recovery it's once a year. The recovery bottle should be about 1/2 full and the hose submerged. If coolant is being expelled as in a blown HG, the recovery bottle will over fill. You would notice this.

Maybe he was wandering off to smell a little girl's hair?

Bubbles are engine compression getting into the cooling system. It will push out through the rad cap causing bubbles and to some extent pushing coolant out ahead of it. Compression alone is over 130 PSI and hundreds of PSI when firing. The rad cap opens at 13 PSI so no contest. For coolant to get into the oil it would have to get into the cylinder (against the compression mentioned earlier) and heated into steam. As steam, it can get past the rings and into the sump. You would also have a steamy exhaust which wasn't mentioned. If it's that bad you could set each cylinder to TDC on the compression stroke and try a fitting that threads into the spark plug hole and apply compressed air. Fill the radiator and wait for air bubbles to show. When replacing the HG do NOT remove the cam sprocket before learning how to prevent the timing chain tensioner from falling out. Now you may already know how to do this but never hurts to say it again. If it falls out when the chain goes loose the entire front of the engine must come off to put it back in.

I am tinking of having a brownie putty zoon

Well there is that. I don't think the GOP is ready. Pinning your hopes on Trump? I dunnow.

Yeah I guess so. No they shouldn't get hot. Is it heat from the rotor? Were you braking hard

"Dude.....it must be a sign!" So today I walked into town, strolling down the sidewalk, sun nice and warm, one more place to go to then walk back along the RR tracks. Life is good. Ahead is a large sandwich sign board big as an A frame. Says blah blah Tea Co. I look over to this niche tea shoppe with 300 blends etc. etc. When I pass the sign I glance back, which is sort of silly as it probably says the same on both sides. But it doesn't! Says 'Come On In For A Free Cup Of Tea On Your Birthday' It's my birthday today and that sign must be a sign, so I did. Got a free hot Green tea. Life is good.

And R-1 carbs. If you take the throttle body off the D21 intake it looks like a 4 bbl should be on there. Just make an adapter out of 1/4" aluminum.

25230-28000 Used on the Roadster and 521 Also on the 620 through '74. However I think some had the plug like yours and some had the wires plug into terminals on the relay itself. Also some show only 4 wires. I think the best thing is to get a later 6 wire relay and you may have to wire it in. 2 wires to power the coil inside. Green/Blue and Black/Red 2 wires make contact when coil inactive, disconnect when coil powered. Red/Black and Red/Black 2 wires make contact when coil activated, disconnected when coil not powered. Red/White and Red/White

Sell the SUs, someone will want them: they have advantages and disadvantages. They are better than a down draft but not as good as dual side drafts.